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Revolutions, Children, and the Glimmer of Possibilities

Thursday, February 24th, 2011

In the last weeks before a child is born, for those waiting, many points of awareness creep into place while awe stands at the precipice. You have to stare at or put your ear to the mother’s fleshy globe while thinking, “There’s a human being in there.” You don’t know what sort of proportions and characteristics from his parents he’s taken – you wonder if he can hear you, and most importantly, understand. When he pushes his small foot or his bottom against her raised flesh, you must graze your hand over the area and smile or squeal – you know that it’s real. There’s a human being in there.  Your attraction to the swell of belly, whose rise came from fire, is a warm greedy one. It glows under your roving fingers. You wonder how he’s holding on, then what flips him around, his head having become so low your sister can barely walk. How does he know it’s time to break through? What tells him that he’s finished, has no further room to grow in this tight globe, ready to cross over – to be amongst the rest of us?

Is this instinct of crossing over akin to the actions of revolutionary men and women? Can we look at the events during the past month in Tunisia and Egypt and now Libya, Yemen, Iran, and Bahrain, which started with men literally aflame, catching across the Middle East, igniting people who determinedly, literally and symbolically standing their ground, demanded their freedoms, their rights to be human, as an inherent instinct to break through, cross over, to be born again in a new world that provides enough room to grow? And if so, should we figure in the same awe of the bystanders whose hearts ooze at the possibilities of this new life as well as the proverbial “growing pains” that wait on the other side? Can we admit that we know very little of what the future holds and what we have ushered in? How do we feel about that when it’s our sense of freedom that is on the line?

Egypt’s revolutionary success garnered much different reactions in the U.S. than it did in the Middle East. Well, at least in Illinois and Lebanon – which is all I can speak for. It was while I waited for my nephew to be born in Illinois that I watched Egypt’s revolution unfurl into blog posts, Web pictures, You Tube videos, talking heads, and conversations around every corner. Most of my American friends found the revolution pretty awesome and had their TV’s tuned in; although interested, they knew little about the context and wondered from me if I had a take on the situation.

Fox News warned of the Muslim Caliphate and the rise of the Muslim Brotherhood; some news sources reminded everyone what happened as a result of the 1979 Iranian Revolution — this was surely the same thing, 32 years later (of course there are arguments as to how it’s different). These theories and fears have been echoed by some, who repeat them as fact and with a regret for the current events. As if what should have happened is that the Egyptians and the many, many others across the Middle East who reddened and swelled at the possibilities – that they could possibly have a voice in their futures – should just get real, go home, shut up! and swallow another 30 years because surely the alternative is much, much worse. But for those Egyptians in the streets of Cairo on the night of February 11, they were reborn – if only because they tore away that thick layer of doubt that was built into their country for over a generation, that the only way was oppression. I’ll bet most of them and the many who celebrated from their homes that night were awake till dawn, their fingers and toes, their fresh faces wet with dew.

In Beirut, taxi drivers offered congratulations, mabrouk, to passengers. People danced till morning in celebration. People had been glued to the Internet for weeks, waiting to see if it was possible, if Egypt could bring down their enemy at home. It all meant something. That the “birth pangs of the new Middle East” could be self-determined, something that no one else should or could conceive. As I write, Yemen, Bahrain, and Iran mourn their own martyrs while in Libya civilians are being massacred by their own army in the attempt to bring down their own dictator-enemy of the last 40 years, who has manifested just how deulsional, deranged, deceptive, and of course rapacious, one becomes after “owning” a country for 40 years, while leaders around the world think it’s a good idea to hold sanctions against Libya and not deny their refugees. This red-hot sprawl of freedom-fighting across the Middle East – is it possible that the delay of revolution had been rooted in a collective doubt? That is, that people had been convinced that corruptive rule was the only way for them?

“Our generation let our children down,” my friend, who’s 45, tells me. “How did we accept these leaders to be in power for all this time?”

How did a man on fire present a tipping point in history? Hadn’t thousands of others gone up in flames by blowing themselves up in the name of “freedom”? Is humanity gaining a foothold over ideology?

As Tunisia’s revolution set forth, Lebanese did not hesitate to show solidarity – even as their own government switched hands, even as the sectarianism lives on – the red flag suddenly in eyeshot on Facebook profiles and dormitory windows. These red flags in Lebanon were an expression of the desire of many to see humanity trump ideology, to see something better for their futures – because they know and have seen that it could be better.

The snow hadn’t stopped falling for 24 hours. My friend’s husband sat in his recliner in Chicago, Illinois, while the biggest snow storm to sweep the country in decades covered ¾ of the U.S., and the Egyptian Revolution rocked across his TV screen. The family room window was frosted over and the kids were tucked warmly in their beds. He began typing furiously when his wife asked him what he was doing. Call it instinct, a glimmer of possibility, or the triumph of humanity that inspired him, when he said “I’m starting a revolution.”

Reactions to the Most Recent Government Break-up

Thursday, January 20th, 2011

…Just leaving campus for the day when I spot my dear friend, who’s been in Lebanon just as long as I. He’s tall and walks with long strides. His eyes grow big as he reaches me.

With his last stride: “Did you hear what happened?”

“What?!” (I hadn’t read Lebanese news in ages. Was keeping it sane.)

“Apparently the government has been toppled and the fate of the country lies in Walid Jumblatt’s hands!” Here he made a sweeping arm movement.

“Oh, I don’t care.”

Gate 204C: to Beirut

Monday, January 17th, 2011

In any airport in the world, as far as I can see, the gate to Beirut is a perfect slice of the city.


Surprised, Stunted, Grunting

I have to admit, I was surprised to see people in the security line peeling off their shoes and belts. We weren’t at O’Hare, I had to mind-check. Was this typical in Turkey since it’s EU-whoring and all? Or was it because we’re Beiruti’s?

“Yiiiiiii, shoo hayda? Sabbaat ma sabbaat.” She was a tidy woman, with her not yet adolescent son who dutifully started taking off his shoes; something in his eyes made me think he liked the idea.

“We have to take our shoes off now? Yiiiiii.” I wanted to place my hands over the boy’s ears (instead, I couldn’t help but laugh).

The man in front of us pulled his belt out.

“Tsk tsk tsk.”

Model Faces

The soft curve of this girl’s natural eyebrow line was barely perceptible under her harsh tattooed eyebrow, pointed straight toward her temple. I could only see the white of her eye and her long lashes that ticked with every article of clothing and layer of foundation she inspected on the girl sitting opposite her. Their similar long jet-black hairs not shading their stolen glances.

When I had sat down just a few moments before, the girl being inspected had inspected me, I could see from the corner of my eye. Then I had watched her contemplate her sharp-heeled black boot which swings to and fro from her knee. Mine were UGZ, big fat things, hardly sexy, but a trendy item these days in the ol’ Leb – and they matched the other girl’s feet, the one with the eyebrows. Hers were black as were her fingerless gloves and big studded purse.  While I couldn’t resist watching her thickly painted baby face, she couldn’t take her eyes off the other, who was busy on the phone. I wondered what it was she admired about her. Was it her long thin thigh, or her longer hair, which had an uncommon dye job, its under-layer blond and glowing under the darker top layer. Was she curious about her life – about who was on the other end of the phone? She watched and watched. She gnawed at her thick lips.

The Ladies – “No Place Like Home”

The characters:

Lady 1: This woman is tall and wears her solid patterned veil tucked into her shirt. She has a long, hard, plain face. She could be mistaken for a nun. In contrast to her plain clothes, she wears a very ornate sparkling diamond ring. When she speaks, she nods her head neatly and intermittently.

Lady 2: Woman 1’s sidekick. She is petite and has chin length wispy hair. She dresses like a wealthy village woman. And has a perpetual pessimism locked into her face and the tight way she holds her big black purse in front of her, close to her body.

Lady 3: The “sabbaat ma sabbaat” woman. She and woman 2 look a lot alike – average, middle-aged women, dressed in embroidered sweaters.

Lady 4: A homely short stocky woman, carrying tons of baggage and a cumbersome package in her arms. Her language is sprinkled with well-enunciated English.

Eyebrow Girl and her brother: She still has her eyebrows and he seems too innocent.

***

We are standing in line to board the plane. The ladies are re-capping and drawing conclusions after their stay in Istanbul.

Lady 1: “Turkiya is not inexpensive,” she announced, standing upright.

Lady 3: “T-t-t. Not at all! No, it’s not better than Beirut. And everyone said…”

Lady 2: “Yiiii, we could have gone halfway to Fransa with the same money.”

Lady 4: “Yes, but we got lucky with a few items,” she shifted the package from one hip to the other. “But our weather is much better!”

Lady 3: Tightens her shawl around her, “Oh please, don’t remind me! I can’t wait to get back to Beirut.”

Lady 1: “The winds were brutal today in Istanbul. Please, nobody can say anything about our weather.”

Lady 2: “Bas last year in Fransa, yiiii, no one could imagine the winds.”

Lady 1: “Ehhh, it’s a blessing this part of the world – at least we don’t have the cold they have in Europa.”

Lady 4: “But don’t forget that we were in Europa!”

Lady 3: “Ha! They wish – let’s see them get into the EU by raising the prices on their tourists. Fasharou. The best thing they did was give us coffee!”

Behind me, a separate conversation in reply to the one in front of me, begins.

The brother: To his sister, “Is Turkey somewhere we could live?”

The girl: (Matter-of-factly): “No, no, it’s not a place to live – it’s just a place to visit.

You are Most Welcome

Boarding the plane.

Person in front of me: “Marhaba.”

Captain: “Marhabtaiyn.”

Me: “Hi.”

Captain: “Hi-aiyn.”

Why does this suffix put a smile on my face every time?

Meet the Student and the Parents

An ex-student, who was always a joker, has a seat right next to me on the plane. What are the chances? This country is a fishbowl.  I think he failed my course, or came close. He is on his best behavior as his parents sit next to him, very calm and slightly “shy,” different than his usual joke-cracking self. His mother leans forward to talk. And is shocked that her son made the class laugh. She explains that her other son, who sits in front of them in a navy v-neck reading a mystery and completely ignoring them, graduated from Oxford. She explains that her sons are very different. This one has tons of friends while the other just reads.

Happy New Year!

I wasn’t prepared for the packed airport. The Saudis et al were in town, and that meant a few things, and one thing in particular at the airport.

The first taxi driver was standing at the exit. He “offered” me a ride for 45 thou, a ride that usually costs 15. I furrowed my brows and brushed him off like a true local, yet he did not call after me with an “ah-you’re-one-of-us” price. It was late, and I wondered how I’d get home in this situation.

The next taxi pulled up in a white Mercedes.

“To Sanayeh.”

He gestured with his head to get in.

“How much?”

“$30.” [45 thousand]

“What?! Nevermind!”

“How much do you want to pay?”

“15 thousand.” [10 dollars]

“Get in.”

(I always wonder, at this point, is it safe to get in the car with a scammer? And then I wonder, why do I?)

The Hair Mafia: a Man’s Perspective

Monday, December 20th, 2010

By:  David Beckham in Lebanon

I have two barbers. How did this happen? Well, pre-2006 I had one, Fawwaz, and I think he was a hybrid of a barber, you know at times while he would be at my Tin-Tin hairs, I would tend to think a philosopher holding a pair of scissors was standing behind me. I didn’t really care that he had more words to say than hairs to cut. I went to him out of sympathy, especially knowing that my hairdo didn’t need Jacques Dessange to attend to it.

Then comes the Divine Promise. A couple of weeks after the war started, we moved down from Mechref to our Beirut flat. For me it was a breath of life, this change. Mechref was isolated and we were living with no power, no water and we actually started minimizing our meals in size and frequency. Not only that, but I also had two dogs to feed and so the situation was tough because they underwent some rationing too. Moving down was like a move from Omaha into NYC. I had access to dog food, power, regular running water and I felt useful since I would pop by the office in the mornings; I also immediately joined an NGO that was catering to the migrants. So I was with my family, with my dogs, close to my girlfriend, and amongst my friends.

The only thing that was missing after settling in was a haircut.

So I walk over to Fawwaz’s and find him shut. Fair enough, there is a war going on. That is understandable. I try again and again every few days, until 1701 was ratified and post-1701 and still no Fawwaz. Meanwhile, my islands of hair were making themselves more and more visible. I tried one last time a week after 1701, but to no avail. I managed to get his number from his neighbor and I called him up. His co-worker picked up and told me Fawwaz left the country, illegally of course.

I was shocked and I needed a haircut. After hearing those words on the phone, my tone was suited to presenting a funeral ceremony. I felt like Olmert and Nasrallah had conspired to remove the rug from under my feet and did so swiftly without my noticing it until a few weeks later. One of the uncountable losses of 2006.

By this time our football league was back on, but at a different venue. Our first venue turned out to be a weapons-storage unit for Hizballah where it looked like a volcano had erupted. All that time, we were playing on top of those Khaybars and Raads. After the game, I asked my teammate who has my hair genes where he gets his trim. He showed me a dude who’s a couple of buildings away from our Beirut flat.

I went in there the next day with a picture of Fabio Cannavaro lifting the World Cup and told him, “This is how I want my hair cut.” It was magic ever since. The dude is an old school dude, but that’s exactly what made me like him. He’s always unwrapping his towels and blades. This dude, Moussa, was also infected with the philosophy syndrome except that he was gifted with timing. My trim would take a maximum of 15 minutes, most times 10 minutes, and he would adequately end his conversation with the last stroke. It was amazing. Fawwaz would spend at least 45 minutes doing the same things.

Four years later, Fawwaz, with two kids and a wife, decides that being an immigrant in asylum is not his thing. He moves back and does away with his asylum status and texts me that he is back.

I was confused. I felt sorry for him even more now, but I really, really liked Moussa. Moussa was quick, straight to the point, efficient, effective, you name it, he was the man. But me and Fawwaz, we had history, we went way back and he had my empathy. I was stuck between a rock and a hard place…

On the one hand, I couldn’t leave Moussa for all that he was offering me, a quick succinct hairdo. On the other, there was Fawwaz where I felt my being his loyal client would help reassure him he made the right decision to come back.

My hair could see no other way but pursue both barbers, a regular and a mistress. I would alternate. I would do Moussa more often than Fawwaz because of time constraints, but whenever I had the time, I would put up with the Plato reincarnate and drop by Fawwaz.

It was tough.

Until a couple of days ago. I went to Fawwaz’s and he had this young man in the chair.  Except that this young man had hair, not that I have issues with people who have hair, and he seemed to actually care about what it looked like. He was sitting there pointing at his neck. Fawwaz pulled his clippers up and down, and then we’d have to hear minutes of complaints of how it is now too short and his hair no longer looks long. Then he had it gelled and he felt that it made his head look flat and so he had it washed. Then he had it blow-dried. Then he asked Fawwaz to trim the hair just above his ears. Then he would tell him to stop, and he’d fuss about how his hair now makes him look different… etc, etc. By this time, 20 minutes had gone by and if you ask me, the dude’s hair looked exactly the same as it did the minute I walked in. I picked up my stuff, told Fawwaz I had a ‘meeting’ to attend to and that I would be back. “I will be back, when I can find the time.” And scurried down to Moussa’s. It was a Gustav pie.

I was through with Fawwaz… but I knew I would be back for more.

The Straight Hair Mafia

Thursday, December 9th, 2010

It’s a funny thing, my hair – and everyone’s, really. I was born with just wisps of it and stayed that way ‘til I was terribly two, when apparently a hormone? kicked in, and eventually pulled my wisps into straight strands past my shoulders by the age of ten. My youngest sibling, my sister, had just entered kindergarten, so my mom who had been a stay-at-home since she made her move to the U.S. of A, enrolled in beauty school. She just woke up one morning, as the story goes, and said: “I wanna do hair.” And for 20 years she has done many-a-human head. She had quite the touch, mom, from the beginning. One of the first things she did, incredibly while still in beauty school, is perm my hair permanently. I sat in her guinea pig chair until several long blue rods, laced with my long straight strands, pulled heavily on my scalp. I was happy. In less than an hour, I would have curls.

And 20 years later, I still have them. The truth is probably that my hair was destined to ride the waves of my adolescent hormones, curling and bending anyway. But, I will never know. This story is actually beside the point. I just like to say that I have a permanent perm. Like, my head took that shit literally.  But one thing is true, just like almost everything in my life – I’ve experienced both: straight and curly. Here comes the issue…

I’m sitting in a new fancy leather chair, in Achrafieh now, with a complimentary espresso in a French salon. Today my hair is short and curly, and so it needs regular visits to the coiffure. My hair today actually is almost the same cut that my mom gave me at 12, another experiment, the year that rolled out nighttime dream after dream of long hairs streaming from every which place. Back then it was a mushroom cloud. Like something had erupted in my mind, and poof. This time around, since I’ve got a hold of my curls, I wasn’t worried about choosing my hair to be short. For a while now, I’ve known how to tame these suckers with just the right amount of touching (not too much) and my jar of goop, currently Palmers.  Thing is, though it’s not true for all curly heads, my hair is really easy. If you want it in minutes, my hair is usually done in less than 1. I rub the goop between my hands and lightly spread it through and leave it to air-dry. This is why it’s disturbing to me when I sit in the salon in Achrafieh and after cleaning up my funky new haircut, my coiffure takes four fingers and runs them through my hair like a comb with the hairdryer, aimed, on full blast. That’s pretty much the first item on the “don’t” list for curly hair. Because you know what happens? Mushroom cloud! So on my recent visit, in the midst of this atrocious hair-handling, I interrupted and asked for a diffuser (an attachment for the hairdryer, especially designed for curly hair, in that it’s broad and doesn’t blow your hair away).

Me: Ma3leish, do you have a diffuser?

Him: No.

Me: Huh? No, I mean (here I gesture) it’s for curly hair.

Him: Yes, I know, but we don’t have one.

Me: Are you serious? You don’t have a diffuser?

Him: No, we don’t. (He looked at me dead serious.)

Me: I can’t believe that this fancy salon doesn’t have a diffuser! Really???

Him: No, but I just don’t want to give it to you.

Me: (speechless)

Him: (goes to a nearby cabinet and pulls out a diffuser.)

Me: You lied to me? Why?

Him: Because I don’t like your hair curly.

Me: What? You don’t what?

Him: It looks eighties when you leave it curly.

The irony.

The epiphany: Lebanese coiffures have killed the curls.

Listen, it may sound like a hasty generalization, but I’ve been wondering about this for a while. For the longest, I couldn’t understand why “brushing” is favored by most people with half a curl. On several occasions, there have been friends, colleagues, or acquaintances who have revealed that they have naturally curly hair, and it freaks me out. (But, but, you’ve had straight hair for the past 3 years…) It is a curious thing that keeping your curls, which is most people’s natural hair around here, is faux pas. I chalk it up to similar phenomena that is not only a trend because it has caught fire and people want to be hip, but because of these random “authorities.” It’s no different when you get your eyebrows done (“tsk, tsk, who messed these up for you?”) or your nails (“square shape ahla”) or you buy a pair of jeans (“you have too much right around here” – see hips) and the list goes on, made by random self-proclaimed “authorities” dictating what we should look like…

Akh, the authorities…

الحب لا يموت

Wednesday, November 24th, 2010

The Denied; Ask.

Saturday, November 6th, 2010

I say, “we” as an American

Your squint captures brown eyes,

olive complexion

You ask,

but what is your origin?
____

I say, “it’s many places,”

You are not satisfied –

You want clean lines

Shaved answers.
____

I anticipate your disappointment,

Participate, begin.

____

I was born in a small town

in the heart of Illinois, USA,

in the old vaudeville town

where the old saying say,

“If it plays here, it plays everywhere.”

Made up of the average American,

5,000 Lebanese immigrants.

Home of Caterpillar, its life force –

Its tractors, incidentally,

scraping through the lands

of my new home by the Mediterranean

and further south in occupation.
____

Peoria ended 13 years ago, when

I became an adult by legal standards.
____

Drove the old Ford

to Chicago

Home of the Bears, the Blues,

The Windy City

ultimately unlearning Peoria.

City walls were much higher, much wider,

more solid

for this girl who was just

learning to hold her own,

to own what she didn’t know.

She grew a few inches each way –

a feather here, a tail there, a heavier head.

____

In Chicago is where I became a woman

By my own terms.

____

Rode in the backseat, straight out

of Chicago’s northwest side

Cried, peering out the window

At the old brown bungalows

knowing it was never

Going to be the same.

Mom and dad sent messages

from the front seat

“You’re going to be okay.”
____

To “Beirut,” my mother by my side

People wondered, “To know your roots?”
____

They ask me, Why is your Arabic broken?

I lived outside, I reply.

I’m working on it, I try.

And your accent?

Yes, yes, I’m Lebanese from the south.

Even though Beirut is my playhouse.

But your family name – it’s not Lebanese.

That’s true because it’s Palestinian.

My grandfather, the dekanji, the soap maker,

the businessman, the seafarer,

he gave me my name,

The realization of a past denied

By those denied,

My illegality in the Arab world,

and the cynical skeptical questions.
____

How can you call yourself an American? It is evil.

Look at what it has done to us!

How can you call yourself Lebanese?

Your father is Palestinian!

How can you call yourself Palestinian

when you don’t speak it, breathe it,

suffer like us?
____

Who are you with? You ask.

Who will you brandish your gun for? You ask.

Are you with us or against us? You ask.
____

I tell you I don’t believe in guns and bombs.

I tell you I cannot be absolute.

I tell you there is no purity, no truth.

I tell you, I believe in principles, not fighting men.

I tell you that I come from more places than one.
____

And still after all of this, you ask me, So where are you from?

The Syrian Social Nationalist Hamra

Thursday, October 14th, 2010

Rue Hamra, first week of October, 2010

SSNP brochure: distributed in front of Main Gate, AUB - One month before student elections.

"Students are the focal point at the national work." -- Antoun Saadeh

I “met” the SSNP two years ago, during the 2008 May events. They’ve found a cozy home in Hamra. The following is something I wrote then, when they “won” the neighborhood…

***

May 22, 2008

Just two weeks ago, Beirut was a somber city crackling with red defiance. After almost two years of a governmental impasse, provoked namely by the July 2006 Lebanon War with Israel, fires, road blockages, including roads to Syria, and the closing of the airport kept most citizens (those who were not tempted to the streets with their house-warmed weapons) claustrophobically locked within four walls watching news and feeding their despondency with an array of food, fruity hookahs, and playing cards. Outside, masked armed men controlled the streets while the just-recent-”valiant” army (Nahr el Bared) stood on the sidelines, purportedly incapable of staying neutral in our infamously sectarian country. The opposition, namely Hezbollah, unprecedentedly took the streets of Beirut in refusal of the government’s untimely demands that they dismantle their underground telecommunications network and camera surveillance in the airport that are used purportedly to spy on Israel, who is commonly know here in Lebanon as “the enemy.”

On the first day of the unrest, May 8, the Ras Beirut neighborhood, the pre-civil war “cultural center” of Lebanon, was quiet. Universities, schools, and businesses were closed with the exception of Cafe De Prague, which kept its doors open and where plenty took refuge for the day. I sipped my favorite black black coffee while flipping between work, emails, news, and political speeches on my laptop. After eight hours and Hassan Nasrallah’s inflammatory speech, I was finally ready to go home. I ordered the bill while thinking of the long nap I would take as soon as I got home. The speeches and news and Internet in general had exhausted me. But Hamra was not gonna let me nap.

Just as I pulled my cash out, bullets panged outside; they were definitely not the common sound of fireworks. The cafe workers poked their heads out and soon enough closed up all the windows, shutters and door. I moved quickly and sat still on a table away  from the windows, while I tried to appear less afraid than I was. I was sure that some of the others had experienced wartime, and so I did my best to hide my thumping heart so not to seem too squeaky clean, or American.

We spent the night in Cafe Prague – about 15 of us including employees and leftover customers. Three girls who worked for the UN were picked up after thirty minutes, but UN workers only. “Sarah” gave me a a corner of paper with her phone number and said, “If you need anything, let me know.” I was speechless, for the only thing I would need Sarah for was to evacuate me from Café De Prague. Anyway, I didn’t want to leave,  abandon ship. My friend noted right away that it reminded him of Hotel Rwanda. Immediately, I recalled the wrenching evacuation scene of the based-on-true movie where all the Rwandans were left behind and the foreign, white folks looked ashamedly from the bus window. I wondered what use was the UN anyway?

Quickly, the De Prague staff popped open a bottle of cold rose and poured for the house. We were the most spoiled “refugees” you’ve ever seen. We had electricity, couches, extra boxes of nicotine, and labneh sandwiches, omellettes, and fattouch spread in front of us, as we dimmed the lights and gathered round together like a family.

After an evening of close and heavy fighting and a night of relative quiet, we woke up at dawn to the sound of bullets and RPG’s. I wondered how long I would be stuck there. And then worse… what if they found out about us and invaded? I had lived a peaceful life in the Illinois, where my parents took refuge thirty years ago, when this ongoing war started. What was the nature of this war? We could see militiamen walking past the front of the cafe through the slivers of light visible between the windows and the shutters.

At 6 a.m., the general manager told us that Mekdassi Street was quiet, and after a phone call to his friend, he led five of us out into the dusty dawn and a looted street. Syrian Social Nationalist Party militiamen stood along with their rifles, and empty bullet shells littered the pavement. The plant pot in front of Kakaya, the hookah bar a few doors down, lay in the middle of the street; I looked around and tsk-tsked at the things broken. I tried to avoid eye contact with the men and only nodded at a few, who I recognized from DePrague. Turns out you can be sitting right next to a militiaman at your favorite café. Turns out that your favorite café has an ideology and a favorite party flag; turns out in Lebanon, most do. They were familiar, young, tired, and in black street clothes, their only accessory extra bullets. I distinctly remember one of these young men lift his head to the sky, revealing his gold molars. And slightly beyond, the symbol of their takeover, their black flag with the red abstract swastika, flapping on tin barricades…

Language Lessons

Thursday, September 30th, 2010

I just finished taking my third formal Arabic course. Hooray! It’s peculiar to speak a language almost fluently, but be incapable of reading and writing it. There are tons of people like me around the world who have grown up with Arabic singing in our ears, while leaving us illiterate and gawking. I never dreamed that one day I would understand what that scratch actually said! Since I’ve come to Lebanon, I chose literacy. Ha. Well, I took on the often grueling and exhausting task of learning how those curves and swerves and dots work together to mean. For those of you who don’t know, there are two languages, for all intents and purposes, in Arabic – the one you speak and the one you read and write. In other words, there isn’t just the complexity that the alphabet is not Roman, but also what you speak to your grandma is different that what you read in the morning paper. It’s not the same difference as in English when we distinguish “slang” from “formal.” More accurately, perhaps if you compared Medieval English with contemporary Facebook English, then we may be closer to an analogy.

Yet, the language and its environment is opening up in front of me as my tongue rolls the oscillating accents, the rhythm of the language. As the wazan and the jezr reveal the complex and very logical patterns of words. As the increased difficulty resides in its elaborate nature. And as the raving mad curious rules, especially the rules, the grammar lessons, twist me up, have me asking Why? and making amateur connections to the psychology of the Arab mind.

All non-human plurals take the singular feminine adjective.

This one is what really got me from the beginning. When the teacher announced this, I snorted under my breath and looked around the class for some mutual contempt for this obviously sexist grammatical truth. Nothing. And the teacher didn’t even say it with a hint of irony! I looked closely at her and waited. Nothing, no remark about how rude this rule was. I began considering: cars, phone booths, tables, books, doors, music stands, computers, buildings, floor tiles, street signs, well, actually all things in the world. Objects. Now you’re thinking, relax feminist. And though I will not backspace and delete, I will spare you the speculation on the “singular” aspect…

However, I will not spare you of this cleric’s recent and most disgusting and objectifying pontification on men’s “rights” with women. Disclaimer: This is probably the worst of it.

\”Allah Honors Wives with Beatings\”

The masculine form is what is conventionally used in dictionaries, as the “standard” form.

Somehow, I never cease to be surprised by the sexist things that come out of men’s mouths. I am one of those obstinately naïve people who thinks that everyone is more morally and ethically sound than they really are. Even when they say the sexist thing, I think, they don’t really mean it. I’m sure this is partly because I don’t want to believe that people are so unfair and partly because I don’t want to hate them. But, despite myself, their honesty eventually registers, and I lose respect and slowly the hate seeps in…

The dumbest sexist comment I heard recently was the clichéd “Women can’t drive” theory. It’s funny, I never heard this spoken by a woman. I mean, if it were TRUE, then we would all be able to somehow objectively observe it, right? Women talk about other women all the time. But I never heard them talk about each other as “bad drivers.”

He was adamant: “I swear, they really don’t know how to drive. They are too hesitant in making decisions on the road… they really are dangerous.”

“All of them?”

“ALL of them.”

“Oh, so, women’s ‘hesitance’ is worse than certain men’s speeding and showing off their tires’ musical genius in the streets?”

“Oh, yeah, yeah, I know men speed, but at least they have control and they can make decisions.”

He seemed to think that men’s driving and decisions were standard, and women’s nuisance on the road was a given.

I asked him, “So who taught women how to drive in this country?”

For future tense, you may use one of two prefixes. You decide.

This rule’s practical application is simplistic and differs by just one letter. But I thought the rule revealed liberalness. Not only do you have a few choices to construct the future tense, according to your whim, but making it is quite simple in itself where you simply add a prefix to the root word.

I found it funny that Arabs once thought the future so simple.

‘Sun,’ ‘moon,’ ‘sky,’ and ‘war’ are all feminine words.

Whaddya think Alanis would say?

The superlative is the “easiest lesson.”

Does this surprise you? That to claim the biggest, the best, the smartest, the most beautiful, all have one standard conjugation in Arabic. My teacher claimed that this is the “easiest lesson.”

What Business Is It of Yours? : UPDATE

Saturday, September 4th, 2010

Today at the corner of Sanayeh Gardens, I saw a familiar figure leaning against the wall in a way that triggered my memory: His left leg slightly bent, his foot pressed up behind him. I almost passed him when I suddenly stopped and turned to him.

“Were you the one who saved me from the walrus taxi driver who wanted to slap me in the middle of the street?” I asked.

He hardly hesitated, “Yes!”

“Oh my gosh, thank you!” I proceeded to give him a hug (a natural inclination).

He laughed, we laughed.

“Thank you so much! You saved me! You were like an angel!”

“That guy came back and gave me trouble at work…”

I raised an eyebrow.

“After one hour, he came back, got out of his car, and asked me, ‘What is it your business to get involved… she swore at me! She deserves to be beaten!’”

Here he looked at me and said, “I’m Sudani, we don’t let a girl get hurt in front of us. Moustaheel.” And so he told walrus, who was having none of it.

“Inta, it’s none of your business! I’m gonna get the police and have you arrested!”

And evidently, his employers at the pharmacy felt the same way. Why did you get involved? They had asked. What business is it of yours?

Again, it was reassuring to know that my countrymen are so freaking protective of each other – from the taxi driver to the pharmacy owner… (see if I ever buy another deoderant from him)…